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The bouquet is more backward than the straight Chevalier. There is a greater wealth of fruit at the front of the palate but it continues right across without changing too much in character. The exotic notes are less evident than the regular Chevalier, there is a marvellous concentration of flesh. Good acidity too at the back. Very good.
The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte Grand Cru is also showing very well from bottle, opening in the glass with a lovely bouquet of crisp green orchard fruit, citrus oil, white flowers, blanched almonds and wheat toast. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with a deep and layered core, racy acids and a long, penetrating finish. While this can't quite match the mid-palate volume of the Montrachet, it certainly nods to Montrachet in style. - William Kelley