Domaine Brusset - Gigondas Le Grand Montmirail 2020

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"Vibrant, sharply focused raspberry, cherry, potpourri and baking spice aromas, with hints of cola and succulent herbs. Shows fine delineation and spicy lift to its bitter cherry and red berry flavors, which become sweeter as the wine opens up. Echoes the floral and spice notes on a long, penetrating finish that's framed by subtle, fine-grained tannins." Josh Raynolds

Domaine Brusset Description

Thirty year old Laurent Brusset is the intense, perfectionist winemaker at this 52 year old domaine. Started by his grandparents in 1947 with three hectares of vineyards in Cairanne, today the total is some 85 hectares, with five hectares in the Cotes de Ventoux, 25 hectares in Mondragon (Cotes-du-Rhone), 40 hectares in Cairanne (cotes-du-Rhone-Villages) and the crown jewel, 20 hectares in Gigondas consisting of 68 individual terraces on an incredibly steep slope at the base of the "Dentelles de Montmirail".

Vinification is utterly modern. Yields are kept very low (between 25 and 30 hectoliters per hectare for Cairanne and Gigondas) by close pruning and a vendange verte in abundant vintages. The grapes are all hand-picked, completely destemmed, and vinified parcel by parcel, varietals separated. During harvest Laurent may have almost 100 different microvinifications in the cellar, representing different grape varietals of some 60 distinct parcels. All are fermented in enameled steel vats with temperatures controlled at 28C with a day or two at 34C for maximum extraction. Following the initial fermentation and malolactic in tank, the separate varietals and parcels are blended for each wine, with inferior tanks being sold off to negociants.

Vinous: 93 Points

Bright ruby. Displays vibrant, sharply focused raspberry, cherry, potpourri and baking spice aromas, with hints of cola and succulent herbs. Shows fine delineation and spicy lift to its bitter cherry and red berry flavors, which become sweeter as the wine opens up. Echoes the floral and spice notes on a long, penetrating finish that's framed by subtle, fine-grained tannins. Josh Raynolds

Jeb Dunnuck: 92 Points

As to the 2020s from bottle, these are all beautiful wines as well. The 2020 Gigondas Tradition Le Grand Montmirail has a round, supple, quintessential Gigondas style as well as notes of red and black fruits, Provençal garrigue, sandalwood, and leather. Medium-bodied, soft, and ready to go, it's going to evolve nicely for 7-8 years, probably longer, although I see no need to delay gratification. The blend is 70% Grenache and 10% each of Cinsault, Mourvèdre, and Syrah, aged 60% in vats and 40% in used demi-muids. As with all the wines here, it was completely destemmed.