Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt Riesling Spatlese Juffer Sonnenuhr 750ML 2018

Vinous: 91 Points

 Really ripe Golden Delicious apple, Persian melon and banana on the nose are mingled with nut pastes on a glossy, subtly creamy palate. The soothingly sustained finish is seductive in its sheer fruitiness, to which is added a hint of almond paste, all of this well supported by modest sweetness from 57 grams of residual sugar ? a modesty that also permits some genuine refreshment as well a revelation of stony underpinnings. Among overtly sweet Kesselstatt 2018s, this is the most striking example of Mertes determination to let alcohol rise so as to moderate residual sugar, especially in a low-acid vintage, because here we have 10% alcohol. Unsurprisingly, no price is paid in terms of levity ? a Riesling of 10% alcohol is still eminently buoyant ? so what?s the downside? And why don?t more vintners follow Mertes? lead ? in general, and not just in low-acid vintages? Why do contemporary Sp?tlesen have to taste so very sweet? ?I guess that makes them more impressive to professional tasters,? volunteered Mertes sagely, ?but I think that?s also the reason that so little Sp?tlese actually gets drunk,? which he and I both think is a problem and a real shame. (Drink between 2020-2035) - David Schildknecht

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