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Ester-rich, penetratingly high-toned aromas of pear distillate and bruised grapefruit rind are mingled with Pinot Gris- or even Gewurztraminer-like notes of smoked meat and smoky black tea that seem to be typical for Höllenberg. Peach fuzz and piquant pear pip amplify the counterpoint supplied by smoky and stony impingements on a palate of palpable density, leading to a finish of implacable grip. Germany’s prevalent fans of bone-dry, firm, pronouncedly phenolic and relentlessly forceful Riesling will in no doubt be thrilled; the rest of you have been warned. (For more about Höllenpfad, a fascinating and historically renowned sandstone site, consult my note on the Dönnhoff vintage 2014 Riesling from that site.) (Drink between 2020-2023)
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