Peter Lauer - Grosses Gewaches Kupp Fass 18 Riesling 2018

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Peter Lauer Description

The 2018er Kupp Fass 18 GG, as it is referred to on the consumer label, displays a superb nose of dried fruits, smoke, almond cream, candied citrus and a hint of camphor. The wine proves superbly playful on the palate where a light touch of creamy fruits is well wrapped and balanced by a nicely tickly acidity. It leaves one with a tart feel, which still needs to integrate in the very long finish. Beautifully smoky and herbal elements come through in the after-taste. Only an underlying feel of power has kept us from rating this superb dry Riesling higher. 2022-2028

Mosel Fine Wines

A View from the Cellar: 93-94 Points

The 2018 Kupp GG was the most on form of the three that I sampled during my visit, and this is clearly going to be a superb example of the vintage. The bouquet is showing some lovely elements, wafting from the glass in a mix of tart peach, orange, a beautiful base of slate, lemongrass, gentle smokiness, a bit of sea salts and a topnote of wild yeasts. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, racy and nicely precise, with a fine core of fruit, excellent mineral drive, bright acids and lovely cut and grip on the long and very promising finish. This will be lovely. (Drink between 2025-2065)

Vinous: 92 Points

Bittersweet notes of floral perfume, zesty kumquat, lime and roux mark the penetrating nose, and there is a corresponding piquant concentration of flavors on the full-bodied, subtly oil palate. A tart edge of crab apple, sizzle of sage and influx of mineral salts serve for invigoration and salivary stimulation on a gripping and multifaceted finish, albeit one that may disappoint those seeking refreshment. I can’t see the point of insisting that this wine needs time to reveal its stature, much less to be enjoyed – even though that seems to be the consensus among fellow critics. But the fact that it’s slightly lower in alcohol than its two 13% siblings renders it, in my experience, less likely to become encumbered by heat or harshness six or eight years on. That said, I have chosen to be conservative in my prognosis of ageability, and I would want to carefully monitor any bottles that resided in my cellar. (Drink between 2020-2026)