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“It was a vintage of extremes. Heat waves in the Summer and rain during the harvest. My older holdings in the Wolfer Goldgrube withheld these conditions quite well, but one did need to be quick and start the harvest already in September! Overall, the resulting wines have a beautiful tension between freshness and riper flavors. They do vaguely remind me of 2001 ... only that, in 2001, we harvested a month later!”
Daniel Vollenweider on the 2019 vintage
The Goldgrube is too rocky and steep to be the subject of Flurbereinigung, a process that sees fragmented parcels rationalised, roads built if necessary and vines replanted, all to make mechanisation easier. It runs south to west, and its grey and red slate soils produce deep, spicy wines that need time in bottle to show their glory.
“From the core of the seven-hectare-site and from very old vines, the 2019 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling is excitingly pure, refined and freshly mineral on the herbal and floral nose, as if the slate was broken to a billion slices and left Mother Earth with flowers and herbs. This is just a beautiful Riesling from a Swiss genius who made his fortune in Traben-Trarbach. On the palate, this is a pure, highly finessed, beautifully balanced, even juicy and charming picture-book Riesling from this still widely unsung vineyard that gives such beautiful wines, like this 12% alcohol Riesling. It is weightless, frisky and charming on the one hand but seriously structured, long and tensioned on the other. It is dancing like a Kabinett but intense and straight as a cru from pure slate. A fabulous wine.” Stephan Rheinhardt