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The Pinot Noirs are famously light, bright, energetic, detailed, ethereal, satiny, even if they can be broad-shouldered and powerful in a sneaky sort of way. Thus the mystery, the beauty and yes, all the damn fuss. At this point it’s said so often it’s beyond trite, but here we go: If you appreciate Burgundy these wines are worth checking out. Not because they taste like Burgundy, they don’t, but because they share a similar aesthetic of lightness matched to intensity, filtered through soil.
Depending on the vintage, the estate can make up to four “Grand Crus.” First, there are the two terroir-specific Pinots: a wine from limestone called “Muschelkalk” and a bottling from colored sandstone called “Buntsandstein.” Then, there is a tiny colored sandstone parcel they took over from this older lady named Ida; the barrels always had a unique quality to them, so when they can, they will bottle a “Buntsandstein Ida,” honoring this small parcel. Finally, if the vintage allows, they may bottle a “Pinot a Trois,” which is nothing more (or less) than the top grapes from all three sites. In 2018 they made good quantities of all of these wines; in 2019 they could only make the Grand Cru “Muschelkalk.” So it goes.